Tag: jakarta

  • Jakarta to Yogyakarta by Train

    Jakarta to Yogyakarta by Train

    Both of us absolutely loved the train ride, a chance to relax for a few hours and enjoy the beautiful views outside the window. This is our experience of going from Jakarta to Yogyakarta by train.

     

    Distance: 530km
    Time: 8h 40min
    Cost: €25 (Executive class with air-con)

    Beware – Different trains leave from different stations, this was our experience with the Executive class train travelling from Jakarta Gambir to Yogyakarta Tugu by train.

    Enjoy the stunning countryside of Java from the train
    Enjoy the stunning countryside of Java from the train

     

    Buy your Tickets

    You can buy a train ticket at Gambir Station (best to buy at least a day in advance). OK don’t be scared. There’s a bunch of people sitting around waiting for a ticket window… completely ignore that queue. That is for people who wish to buy tickets at a discount (service men/pensioners etc). Turn around and look behind you, there’s an air conditioned office with ‘Service Center’ written above it, inside will be two nice ladies who will sell you your train tickets and tell you what you have to do. They take Cash or Credit Cards and don’t charge anymore than the normal ticket price, and you will need your passport as identification.

    Once you have your ticket you must ‘Check-in’, which you can do from 24 hours before you depart until 2 hours before departure. There was a machine where you just show it the bar code and it confirms your seat. After that, we headed back to town to pack for the early start the next day.

    The Journey

    We booked a blue-bird taxi via the app to collect us at 6am, even though the journey was 10 minutes from our apartment, this is Jakarta and traffic always has the potential to mess with you. So make sure to plan in sufficient time to get to the train station.

    When we arrived at the train station we first grabbed a few supplies, coffee, cakes, ice-tea. Then showed our tickets and passports at the gate and headed upstairs to the platform. We found our seats very easily, nice wide, reclining and it’s all air-cooled. It’s not modern by any means, but it’s clean, pretty quiet, the toilets are acceptable (mind your head for the hooks on the inside of the toilet door!). In the main carriage there’s a small TV up front or behind which plays random TV shows and adverts. Train staff come round and check your ticket.

    Restaurant Car on the train from Jakarta to Yogyakarta
    Restaurant Car on the train from Jakarta to Yogyakarta

    After about 20 mins a cart come’s round with two staff asking if you want drinks or food… None of it is great, so I hope you packed some supplies. After we exhausted the pastries we bought we headed for something hot and found the dining car and some instant noodles, which are pretty awesome in their own right. Staff are super friendly and super smiley, and yes they wanted a selfie.

    There’s a couple of stops along the way if you want to stretch your legs for 5 mins or get some air, but he journey is really nice, rolling though the country side. For the best view, get the seats on the right (you can choose them when you book), as you’ll be passing through stunning green natural beauty, rice fields and volcano’s. It’s not fast, but if you catch the early train you arrive in Yogya at about 16.30.

    Livia enjoys the peaceful journey through the Java countryside
    Livia enjoys the peaceful journey through the Java countryside

    Interestingly enough, the train we caught is the same train we saw a year earlier on our Hidden Jakarta Tour.

    Gambir to Tugu train passing the slums
    Gambir to Tugu train passing the slums

    solobackpacker.com also has a great page on travelling this route.

    More Indonesia!

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  • Why you Should Visit Jakarta!

    Why you Should Visit Jakarta!

    Many people ask themselves “Should I visit Jakarta?”. In the end, most tourists might have a layover in Jakarta on their way to Bali, or skip Jakarta completely, just staying at the airport. Don’t! In this post I will argue why you should visit Jakarta.

    Jakarta is an amazing city! I know it has a bad rep – smelly, big, non tourist friendly, bad traffic, etc.. some is true, the traffic can be bad, it can be a bit smelly, but so are most cities. Jakarta does not deserve it’s bad reputation and it is definitely worth a visit.

    Yes, it can be difficult coming as a tourist to Jakarta, I will be honest, my first impression with Jakarta wasn’t great, and it took me a while to understand it and see the beauty of this city. However, this was mainly because I ended up in the wrong area and stayed on the main roads. If you know where to look and have some adventure in you, you will experience the beauty Jakarta has to offer. It is not just about malls, I do admit, there are a lot, and they’re hard to skip completely, but there is so much more to “The Big Durian”. These are some of my reasons why you should visit Jakarta:

    The People

    Indonesian people in general are extremely friendly, at least from my experiences. In Jakarta, they are too, but they’re not ’on you’ like on Bali for example. You don’t get hassled walking down the street. People will try to talk to you, or at least say hello. Younger people will probably want to take a selfie with you. But you’re not bothered by sellers or tour guides, just people who are genuinely interested in you. This is, for me, a big argument for why you should visit Jakarta.

    The Atmosphere

    Jakarta might not be architecturally beautiful, or visually beautiful.. the beauty of Jakarta lies in its people, in the atmosphere of the city. It’s difficult to explain a feeling, but it’s just such a nice feel to this city. Even if it’s huge and noisy, I never feel stressed in Jakarta, and there’s always time to exchange some polite words with people you walk by.

    Jakarta, Indonesia, local shop
    Meeting the locals in Jakarta, always with a smile.

    Walking Around

    This ties in with my previous point, just walking around in Jakarta (yes you can walk in Jakarta), is such a treat! This is my absolute favourite thing to do when visiting, just choosing an area and walk around, interact with people, see life go by, eat at street stalls, just be in it, experience the different atmospheres in different areas of this huge city.

    The Food

    Indonesian food is great! Food in Jakarta, amazing! Especially the street food and ’Warungs’ which you can find everywhere. What’s also great about Jakarta is that you can find food from all over the country. Don’t be scared to go to local places, just use your common sense, eat where the locals are eating.
    We have a special post for just food in Jakarta, check it out here.

    Indonesian food, street food in Jakarta
    The best way to enjoy Indonesian food is at a street food stall.

    The Diversity

    Jakarta has everything. You can find 5 star hotels, restaurants and nightclubs, but also local joints. Western and asian places. There is food and accommodation fitting every wallet and there’s more to do and see than you have time for. Enjoy skybars and modern skyscrapers or get into one of the small areas tucked in between the skyscrapers and got lost in the alleys, eat at local warungs and watch life go by.

    For more specific tips on what to do in Jakarta, check out this blog post.

    I have been back every year since I moved from Jakarta, and planning on going back many, many more times. Not just to see my friends, but to experience more of this amazing city.

    The Jakarta skyline – overlooking Thamrin

     

    If you came this far, I guess you have some interest in visiting Jakarta, and I hope I might have convinced you why you should visit Jakarta. It really is worth a visit, just have some patience and when you start to scratch the surface, you might fall in love with this city as I have.

    More Indonesia!

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  • Where to Eat in Jakarta

    Where to Eat in Jakarta

    For anyone who knows us, or has read our other blog posts, you know that we love food and especially Indonesian food. You can find any type of food and standard of restaurant in Jakarta, from street food to 5 star restaurants. I have far from tried all restaurants in Jakarta, also new ones are popping up all the time. But in this guide to where to eat in Jakarta I have listed some of my favourite places to eat, which I usually go back to every time I’m in the city. 

    All places below are added on our Indonesia map.  

    Street food

    Street food can be found anywhere in Jakarta, it’s hard to pinpoint these as they move around and are not always there. Therefore I won’t come with any specific tips on tips, more than follow your nose and don’t be scared of trying street food, follow the locals. There are many street food areas, everywhere where many people are passing you will find street food stalls with different types of food.

    Warungs

    Warungs are local restaurants, very simple. At street food stalls and warungs is where I’ve had most of my  best meals in Indonesia. In general warungs are very cheap to eat at, a little bit more expensive than street food, but still very cheap. Here are some of my favourite warungs in Jakarta:

    Bakmi Cong Sim

    Located in Mangga Besar, between Glodok and Thamrin is this little place. It serves Bakmi, noodles. Simple but oh so tasty! Still dreaming about these noodles.

    Bakmi at Bakmi Cong Sim in Jakarta
    Bakmi at Bakmi Cong Sim

    Nasi Uduk Kebon Kacang Zainal Fanani

    Great little local place in a small alley in Thamrin. Their specialty, Ayam Goreng (friend chicken) and Ayam Bakar (grilled chicken).

    Warung Nasi Uduk Kebon Kacang Zainal Fanani in Jakarta
    Warung Nasi Uduk Kebon Kacang Zainal Fanani in Jakarta

    Warteg Gang Mangga

    Located in Glodok, simple warung with many dishes to choose from. We got to walk behind the counter and point on what we wanted and got huge portions of food for a very very cheap price.

    Warteg Gang Mangga in Jakarta
    Warteg Gang Mangga in Jakarta

    Warung MJS

    This place in Kuningan is on the fancier end of a warung. Make sure to sit in the smoking area, as this is a lovely outside garden with a small pond and loads of colourful lights. The non-smoking are on the other hand is a boring small room inside.

    At this place you point/tell them what you want when you get in and then get seated. There’s loads of choice of Indonesian food, and it’s all really delicious, make sure to order many different things, as this is how you eat in Indonesia. Almost like tapas, you order many different things and share them between you. Although, when we were there we over did it and couldn’t finish it all.

    It’s a very popular place, so you might have to queue for a bit if you come in rush time, but it’s definitely worth it.

    The garden at Warung MJS, Jakarta
    The garden at Warung MJS, Jakarta

     

    Restaurants

    Restaurants are the next step up from warungs. However, there are loads of varieties in restaurants in Jakarta. From local Indonesian places to Western 5 star restaurants. Here are some of my favourite restaurants in Jakarta, most of them Indonesian food:

    Restoran Garuda Sabang

    This is a Padang restaurant, with food from, well yeah, Padang in Sumatra. There’s no menu and you won’t be asked what you want to eat. All the food will just appear on the table without you ordering anything. Don’t be scared tho, this is how it’s done, and you will only pay for what you eat.
    It can be a bit tricky to know what is what if you don’t have an Indonesian with you, but on the other hand you can just try what looks good or ask the people working there. The padang cuisine do have some food that is not common in the west, such as brain, so if you don’t fancy that you might want to ask someone.
    This place is still cheap to be a restaurant.
    Padang food at Restoran Garuda Sabang
    Padang food at Restoran Garuda Sabang, Jakarta

    Bebek Bengil

    Whenever I crave Balinese food whilst in Jakarta, I head to Bebek Bengil in Menteng. It’s so nice to walk in here through their lush little garden with Balinese music playing in the background. Try their speciality, grilled duck!
    This restaurant is a bit pricier, but still ok.
    Sambals at Bebek Bengil in Jakarta
    Sambals at Bebek Bengil in Jakarta

    Sate Khas Senayan

    This place started off as a street food stall, which turned into restaurants. There are a few different locations around Jakarta. They serve the classic Indonesian street food dishes, such as Sate, Tongseng, etc. but in a restaurant setting. It’s still a local place and with good prices and very popular among Indonesians.

    THREE BUNS

    This is the only western place that made it onto this list. I am a huge hamburger fan, and if you find yourself craving burgers in Jakarta, this place in Senopati is where to go. It’s a cool space with an industrial feel.

    It’s on the more expensive side, located in a rich area with many expats visiting. However, still worth a visit and it’s not more expensive than European prices.

    Livia at Three Buns in Jakarta
    Livia at Three Buns in Jakarta

     

    Three buns, Jakarta
    Three buns, Jakarta

    Plataran Dharmawangsa

    This is a more luxurious restaurant, however, I would say it’s still worth a visit. And depending on what you compare it to it’s not super expensive. It’s a very nice restaurant with a lot of artefacts and beautiful architecture. This restaurant in south of Jakarta is serving well made Indonesian dishes.
    Restaurant Plataran Dharmawangsa, Jakarta

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  • Best Coffee in Jakarta

    Best Coffee in Jakarta

    Who makes the best coffee in Jakarta? When you’re travelling coffee becomes a basic human necessity. You need a kick to get you up and off on the good foot.

    On our recent visits to Jakarta my mission as Captain Coffee was to locate some of the best roasteries, brewers and purveyors of the dark brown elixir. Not as easy as you think considering that the island is called Java, Coffee is called Kopi and most people want to serve you a milky iced beverage.

    All places below are listed on our Indonesia map.

    #1 Tanamera Coffee

    Modern, chilled coffee bar in the center of Jakarta, Thamrin. Guys in leather aprons have been proudly brewing coffee since 2013. They work with local Indonesian farmers to produce and roast a piquant coffee that is exquisite and distinctive. They serve all your favorite coffee combinations as well as cold brews, pastries and sandwiches.

    The interior of red and black matching their branding is comfy and welcoming. Of course there is free wi-fi
    Tanamera Coffee now have eight outlets throughout Indonesia. Quite possibly the best coffee in Jakarta.

    Tanamera coffe Jakarta
    Best coffee in Jakarta. At Tanamera Coffee relax in the knowledge your coffee will be good.

    #2 Kopi Es Tak Kie

    Before you get yourself too involved with Jakarta’s famous Chinatown or nearby “Ghost City”, get yourself down to Kopi Es Tak Kie.

    Being Jakarta’s oldest coffee house they’ve perfected their brewing skills over the last 90 years (yes since 1929) and offer a no frills brew at a really good price. There are tables and chairs and there is coffee… but that’s about it. As their name suggests they make Ice Coffee, but you can ask for hot brews, with or without milk, just don’t start asking for a de-caff soy latte OK?!

    #3 Coffeebeerian

    Coffee AND Craft Beer?.. yes it’s possible at Coffeebeerian. It’s a simple place with a few back rooms and a few comfy sofas. All kinds of hot/cold filter brews, specialty beans and a guy who just loves to make coffee. Not fancy, nor Instagrammable but great. It’s also a nice area (Senopati) to walk around with large houses and gardens.

    #4 Toko Kopi TUKU – Pasar Santa

    Ok, you don’t even get a table at this place, find a place to sit down on a nearby wall. At Toko Kopi TUKU you order your coffee through a sliding glass window, you can jump the queue of Go-Jek drivers. Mostly serving Ice Coffee with a plastic sealed lid and a straw it’s hard to beat on a hot day in Jakarta. Go check out the local market, upstairs are loads of cool independent shops selling toys, records, graffiti supplies and more.

    Toko Kopi Kuku, Jakarta
    Toko Kopi Kuku is not romantic by far.. but it’s damn fine coffee!

    #5 Cafe Batavia

    Yes it’s expensive, yes you have to get past the crowds of students wanting interviews and selfies.. but as soon as you cross the threshold of Cafe Batavia you are transported back to the Colonial Jakarta of days gone by. Sip on your coffee and look out over the square with people riding colorful rent-a-bikes and enjoy the history.

    What do you think of my best coffee in Jakarta hot spots? Let me know in the comment section below. All of my best coffee in Jakarta hot spots listed above and more are available on our Indonesia Map

    Many people dismiss Jakarta as a tourist destination which is such a shame as it has so much to offer the traveler, even if you’re just passing through, read our post “Why you should visit Jakarta” and our other Jakarta posts for more on this great city.

    Grand interior of cafe Batavia

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  • Things to Do in Jakarta

    Things to Do in Jakarta

    Jakarta is the capital of Indonesia, a huge city with a million things to see and do. It can be quite difficult and daunting for first timers in Jakarta. It can feel difficult to know how to get from a to b and what to do. So we thought we should write a little post about things to do in Jakarta, as we have been there 5 times now, and fall more and more in love with it each time.

    Jakarta do not have many tourists visiting, which we think is ashamed, it has got something of a bad reputation, but we say it’s definitely worth a visit. Read more about why you should visit Jakarta.

    All places below are listed on our Indonesia travel map.

    1. Stroll Through China Town

    Located north of central Jakarta, or a 20 minute taxi ride from Grand Indonesia, is Glodok, Jakarta’s very own China Town. Like most of Jakarta, it’s a bit run down, but inside the covered walkways and round the winding streets you find a wealth of busy market stalls, food hawkers and mini malls dedicated to electronics and/or medical equipment. Strolling through China towns historical busy streets is definitely on the top of  things to do in Jakarta.

    There are two main Chinese temples in Glodok, which are well worth to visit. It’s permitted to enter and take pictures if you like. Remember to wash your hands at the entrance, but the friendly monks will guide you where to go. You don’t have to pay or tip anyone. Inside there is a small garden which has a big tree offering some cool shade from the busy sweaty street outside.

    In China town you can also find one of the oldest coffee roasters Kopi Es Tak Kie. It’s not fancy, but serves a wicked cup of iced coffee. You can read more in our Best Coffee in Jakarta post. Bringing us nicely onto our next topic.

    Jin De Yuan Temple in Glodok, Jakarta

    2. Watch the World go by at Coffee Shops

    Coffee and Indonesia, I can only say: expect some of the best coffee you have ever had. There’s so much variety, Ache coffee is slightly sour, Java coffee is round and mellow and Kopi Luwak (“Civet poo coffee”) actually surprised me more than anything. Whilst in Jakarta (and if you’re a coffee lover) you are spoiled for choice on where to get your daily fix. Yes, most the malls have the regular Starbucks and/or <insert generic coffee bar names here> but there is much more to find once you get off the main drag. Read more in our Best Coffee in Jakarta post.

    Kopi Es Tak Kie in Glodok, Jakarta
    Kopi Es Tak Kie in Glodok, Jakarta

    3. Indulge in Street Food

    Warung Warteg in Glodok, Jakarta
    Warung Warteg in Glodok, Jakarta

    The next thing on our list is street food. Jakarta is famous for its street food and hunting down the best street food is our absolute favourite thing to do in Jakarta. There are millions of street stalls which all serves different types of Indonesian food, but they have one thing in common: it’s all delicious! All of our best meals in Indonesia has been at street stalls

    Don’t be afraid to try the street food, in general it’s safe. Just use your common sense. Read more about how to avoid get food poisoning in this blog post and for more tips on where to go in Jakarta check our this blog post. LINK!

     

    4. Enjoy Jakarta’s Skyline at one of the Many Sky Bars

    Jakarta is one of the cities in Asia with most skyscrapers. These are mainly in the centre of the city and gives a very modern look to the skyline. This also means there are numerous of sky bars, lounges and restaurants which are great to hang out at to see the skyline in full. It’s quite humbling to be among the skyscrapers and the views are amazing.

    One of the more famous sky bars is Skye, located on the 56th floor of the BCA building in Thamrin with a great view over the whole city, but there are so many others, and more are built every year. The biggest downside of these sky bars are that the prices goes up as soon as the word “sky” is in there and some are quite pretentious with dress codes etc, like Skye. But at most places you can grab a bear, something non alcoholic or something small to eat to enjoy the views without having to pay a fortune.

    View of Jakarta's skyline from the Four Seasons
    View of Jakarta’s skyline from the Four Seasons

     

    Jakarta skyline
    Jakarta skyline, view over Thamrin

    5. Meet the Colonial History in Old town

    If there is one touristy area in Jakarta that would be Old town, or Kota tua, the area around Fatahillah square. This area still has many of the houses the dutch built. Fatahillah square is the main area, with many museums and Cafe Batavia, which restaurant in colonial style. It’s actually a quite nice place to sit down for a coffee and look out at the square.

    The houses around the square are in pretty good shape, however, as soon as you start walking away from the square and towards the harbour most of the old houses are in ruins. Except for the the old Dutch draw bridge, which the government keep in good condition. It’s a weird contrast to the poor family houses around the bridge and the ruins along the way. But that is Jakarta, a city of contrasts.

    Taman Fatahillah, Jakarta
    Taman Fatahillah, Jakarta

     

    Grand interior of Cafe Batavia

    6. The Malls

    Love it or hate it, but you will not be able to escape the malls completely. Jakarta is supposed to have most malls per capita in the world. There are the local malls, like ITC, which is more like a huge market and then you have the western malls, such as Grand Indonesia, with air con and Starbucks.

    In the western malls you will find everything, cinemas, restaurants, food court, arcade and of course lots of shops. I’ve always seen the malls as a bit of a safe haven when I can’t deal with the noisy streets or the heat anymore and just want something western, we all have those days and the western malls are perfect for that.

    ITC Mangga Dua, local mall in Jakarta
    ITC Mangga Dua, local mall in Jakarta
    Sam and Doraemon at the Grand Indonesia Mall in Jakarta
    Sam and Doraemon at Grand Indonesia Mall in Jakarta

    7. Explore all of Indonesia at Taman Mini

    Taman Mini, or small park, is an amusement park in the South East of Jakarta. It’s pretty far from the city centre, but a nice thing to in Jakarta as it entails information about all of the Indonesian regions. Each region has a part of the park with traditional houses built in life size form that region. All houses are like mini museums where you can see traditional clothing and learn more about that region.

    As Indonesia has many regions, you can imagine that this park is quite big. So make sure to rent a motorbike or car or something to get around the park. You will need a full day to see the park.

    Taman Mini, Jakarta
    Suci and I at Taman Mini, Jakarta

     

    Taman Mini, Jakarta
    Maluku part of Taman Mini, Jakarta

    More Indonesia!

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  • Hidden Jakarta Tour

    Hidden Jakarta Tour

    We discussed slum tourism as a couple quite a few times when we found out about the Hidden Jakarta Tour. Wether it would be ethical or not to go on this tour. Their TripAdvisor reviews seemed positive. Not only would we get to see the another completely different side of Jakarta, we would actually be contributing to a community in a sustainable and responsible way. It’s a touchy subject as most people would consider it a day looking at poor people in a very depressing human zoo. Ultimately it depends on the tour itself, which way you look at it and how it affects you as another human being.

    In the end we decided to go on the tour as it wasn’t a look-at-these-poor-people-tour as many tours like these turn into. The people who run this tour are mainly doing it to raise money for these communities (all money goes directly to their different projects) and to show this part of Jakarta to Indonesian people. To make a change. This is where the importance is for us, why they run the tour. They want to make a change, this is something the government doesn’t want you to see, thereof the name Hidden Jakarta tour. But by having this tour, they raise awareness of the issue which is the first step for change. Also, many of the people working for the tour are living in these areas themselves, which we really liked. It’s also a way to give back to these communities.

    The Hidden Jakarta Tour not only gives you an insight into the disparity of the city, we had a real opportunity to connect with people who were as interested in us as we were in them. “Why do you come to Jakarta?“, is a very popular question whenever we are in Jakarta. Our answer is mostly “The food and the people”. This tour made this even more true for us.

     

    Fatahillah Square

    We started our day by heading off in a BlueBird taxi to Fatahillah Square. It’s a on most tourists’ to do list in Jakarta, and a main sightseeing spot. It’s also a popular place for students to grab an interview with the tourists. They ask you your name, where you’re from and why you came to Indonesia, that’s usually in front of a camera. Then they want a selfie with you, then the next person ask the same thing. You could do this all day.

    Fatahillah Square Jakarta
    Fatahillah Square Jakarta

    We grabbed a coffee at the famous Cafe Batavia. The food was OK, but as always in Indonesia you can get better for cheaper, essentially you’re paying for the location and the interior of the cafe. It’s well worth the visit for the location. Coffee was excellent, they have different coffee from all around Indonesia and hits a spot in my Top 5 Best Coffee in Jakarta blog post.

    Drinking Coffee at Cafe Batavia Jakarta
    Drinking Coffee at Cafe Batavia Jakarta

    Our guide meets us at a local cafe, Kantin Mega Rasa, just around the corner. We grabbed lunch and an ice tea, while discussing what’s in store for the day. It’s also a great time to ask anything you’d like to know and about taking photos, as that was something we viewed as a potential awkward/embarrassing, or not at all normal social behaviour. The best thing was to take it by ear, our guide would check, or as it turned out people would ask us to take their photo. Well it is Indonesia, and they do love their selfies.

    The three of us jumped in a microlet (small buss for local transportation) and headed off. We jumped out at Jembatan Kota Intan, an original Bascule bridge, and after dodging the traffic we ducked into a side alley and headed off into the dark and towards the train lines.

    Dark Places

    Dark alleyway leading down underneath the railway tracks
    Dark alleyway leading down underneath the railway tracks

    Ducking into a side alley is not something you’d normally choose to do on your own, or in our case, wouldn’t even know it led somewhere. Our guide smiled and greeted a few people as we walked through the long corridor peeking into peoples homes on each side. You see people cooking food on stoves next to a central gutter, another person washing their clothes or feeding a baby, going about their normal lives in the damp, fetid air. We stopped at a door and our guide bids us welcome into a persons home. It’s about 4m x 4m square, no windows, the railway is only a meter above you.

    This was our first meeting. She explained to our guide how she lives in this space, her husband earns about $2 a day as a parking attendant nearby. This place is ‘rented’ from a Chinese criminal gang who collect about $30 a month from them. As you can see in the pic they have electricity and a fridge, their possessions are hung around or neatly packed against the wall. The fan blasts 40°c hot air around the room, it’s hot as hell, but we all smile for an awkward turtle moment. Yes the first meeting was a bit awkward for us, as we wasn’t sure how to act. But it got better throughout the tour and we relaxed a bit more.

     

    Jakarta Slum Tour
    Small living space under the railway

    Back in the dark corridor, we climb one of the ladders and walked along the thin plywood floor/ceiling and past a few doors to sunlight and a gasp of ‘fresh’ air. Before we head back down and onwards to the bridge, greeting mostly women who were chatting or cleaning/cooking and children who are running around playing and being shy when we say hello.

    Stinky River Water - Slum tourism in Jakarta
    Stinky River – Hidden Jakarta Tour

    Boat Trip

    Livia in a bicycle tuk-tuk
    Livia in a bicycle tuk-tuk

    This time we jumped into an bicycle tuk-tuk (illegal in Jakarta, but no one cared in this area) and disappear off towards the docks. This is a very working class, low income area. Our guide had us pulled across the water way by a family working this “ferry”/boat/raft. It was covered from the sun by some tarp with a piece of rope to pull it left or right. One of the family members guided us into a thin wooden boat. His son took us out to the old lighthouse and back with his grandson sitting up front all proud of his new passengers whilst he played on a broken mobile phone. We passed dozens of ships in different states of repair and after about 30 minutes we were out in open water, the old green lighthouse in view and massive container ships dotting the horizon. We headed back feeling slightly smaller in our 4 meter long wooden boat.

     

    Off to the lighthouse in our wooden boat
    Off to the lighthouse in the wooden boat

     

    When we arrived back our guide led us out into the wasteland next to the docks. The ground was rubble, bricks, concrete, bits of cable. Dotted across the debris were makeshift tents, built from whatever could be found, tarpaulin, wood, sheet metal, whatever worked. Floors were on stilts, beds were either on the floor or raised where the whole family would sleep together. By family, I mean in this case a woman with six children, her husband works on a cargo boat sailing between Indonesia and the UAE. She see him once every three or so months when he brings her a few hundred dollars after his expenses.

    These houses are illegal, in the sense that they’re not allowed to build anything on these grounds. Ever so often the government sends bulldozers to take it all down. And these families have to rescue what they can and start over, once the bulldozers left.

     

    On the boat
    Dockland/Wasteland at the port of Jakarta

    We sat down with a family and had a really nice chat with them. We were asked a ton of questions, If we were married, where we live, where we come from, How much we earn? How much we pay for rent?. You quickly realize these are huge almost inconceivable sums of money for these people.

    Reflections

    Walking through the back streets near the docks in Jakarta
    Walking through the back streets near the docks in Jakarta

    The Indonesian government doesn’t want to admit to this problem. Many Indonesians have never seen these areas. That’s also a reason why we found it important to go. To go here and show that these people matters. That’s an issue in this area, the guide told us that many of the people living here doesn’t think they matter as not even their own countrymen comes here. He continued to explain how happy it made the people here to have foreigners come, just for a small chat. We got so many smiles from people we were passing saying hello, Livia in Indonesian, which made them smile even more.

    It hit me hard, it was difficult to hold back the tears once we left the dockland. Us with so much, so “wealthy”, even though we have to work to live and are about one or two paychecks away from being on the street ourselves. But you can’t imagine having to survive like that and still be able to smile. It’s a rough hand to be dealt in life, it makes you tough. You look at the first photo in this post, now look at the last. Its was a sobering experience for everyone.

    Family of 8 living on the dock
    Family of 8 living on the dock

    More Indonesia!

    Make sure to see our Indonesia page with tips about travel in Indonesia, map and all our blog posts about Indonesia.