Category: Macedonia

  • What to do in Skopje

    What to do in Skopje

    Our second and last stop in North Macedonia was Skopje. We didn’t know what to expect and was quite surprised by this eclectic city. Skopje pretty much has it all, historical old town, brutalist architecture and a renovated city centre filled with sculptures. And when I say filled, I mean they’re everywhere! More on this later.

    We spent a week in Skopje, rented a AirBnb close to the centre and really enjoyed our time here. It was also the cheapest capital we visited during our trip through balkan.

    You can find everything in Skopje

    You can see all places below added to our North Macedonia travel map.

    What to do in Skopje

    Stari Grad

    The old bazaar/old town in Skopje. Not the nicest old town compared to other countries in Balkan, but still worth a walk around. It feels more liveable than other old towns we visited, more local restaurants and cafes and not only tourist traps. This is probably because North Macedonia doesn’t see many tourists.

    Old town in Skopje

    Go on a brutalist architecture walk

    There’s a lot of brutalist architecture in Skopje. So if you’re into architecture and in this case quite bizarre architecture, Skopje is a good place to go. A few places to see are:

    Undergraduate Dormitories ”Goce Delcev” : student housing building.The Macedonia head

    Undergraduate Dormitories

    Post office: another good example of brutalist architecture in Skopje

    Other than that, just walk around in the outskirt areas as there is no brutalist architecture in the centre anymore. Also make sure to check it out soon, as its quickly disappearing.

    Street art

    Sam is really into street art, and Skopje is a pretty good place for it. There’s a few areas where there’s a lot of it. One of these areas is the Autonomous Cultural and Social Center, it’s a bit tricky to find, but you don’t have to find the actual place, just the block of buildings around there. And there’s some nice art. There was also some nice street art in the area between the arena and the city park. The third place we went to see street art was the wall by the walk way along the river. There’s loads of street art around there.

    Street art by the Autonomous Cultural and Social Center
    Old building filled with Graffiti by the stadium

    Go to an Abandoned factory

    We do love abandoned buildings/places. There’s something so special about them. There was a graffiti shop next to our apartment, so we asked the owner where we could see the best graffiti and he told us about this abandoned factory on the edge of the city (see our North Macedonia map for exact location).

    So we walked down there, it was super easy to get into the factory area. Inside the area there’s a few buildings, some completely fallen apart, others still quite intact. We didn’t go into any buildings though as we weren’t sure how safe they were.

    It was a really cool experience and some beautiful photo opportunities. I really find abandoned places beautiful in a weird way..

    However, there was a man there, who didn’t speak any English. Afterwards the guy in the graffiti shop told us there are a few people living there, but they’re harmless. But as we didn’t know if this guy was dangerous or not we kept away from him a bit, especially since we couldn’t communicate. When he picked up an axe and started to walk around, we left quickly.

    Disclaimer: no abandoned buildings are safe to visit. There was loads of glass and the buildings were half falling apart. Also, it is illegal to break an entry, so go at your own risk.

    Count all the statues

    As I said, there is so many statues in the city centre. This was part of Skopje 2014 a project founded by the Macedonian government to make Skopje look nicer and give it a more classical appeal. The project included building museums and government buildings, but the most famous bit of the project it all the statues. Skopje 2014 has got a lot of criticism and it polarised the people, some liking the redevelopment and some thinking the money should’ve gone to other, more important things. The budget was set at 80 million euros but got blown up to over 500 million euros.

    How many statues do you see?
    Pirate ship in the city

    The actual number of statues is unknown but there are hundreds of them. And it has become a trouts attraction in itself. It is very bizarre to walk around the centre of Skopje, with all these old looking buildings (that are actually newly built) and all these statues, some of historical people, some just weird. And then there’s 2 pirate ships in the river. It is a strange place. I preferred other parts of the city.

    Mother Theresa museum

    Where to eat in Skopje

    We cooked a lot ourselves in Skopje, especially dinners. So we didn’t try that many restaurants, but we have a couple to recommend.

    Kafana Gostilnica Ka

    We went here a couple of times. A great little BBQ place serving traditional food for very affordable prices. This is out of the city centre (still central) so it’s a local place.

    Turist Grill

    I hate the name of this one, but it’s a good BBQ place to eat a cheap Cevapi in old town.

    More North Macedonia!

    Make sure to see our North Macedonia page for all our travel tips, travel map and all our blog posts about North Macedonia.

  • What to do in Ohrid

    What to do in Ohrid

    We initially planned on staying a couple of nights in Ohrid, but kept on prolonging it and ended up staying for a week. We both fell in love with this little city situated by lake Ohrid. We stayed in an apartment just in the city centre close to the water, and enjoyed walks along the lake, walking around old town and just drinking coffee in the fall/winter weather.

    We were in Ohrid late November/early December, it was very low season, but we really enjoyed it. It wasn’t full of tourists, the weather was a bit mixed, we had some rainy days, but also a few beautiful sunny days where we could sit outside at cafes by the lake. The only downside might have been that a lot of places in the old town was closed, but we didn’t really mind this as it’s mainly touristy places anyway. Coming to Ohrid off season you really get to experience the local life of the city.

    How magical is this place?

    There really is some magical about Lake Ohrid and I would love to come back to explore more of the area around it.

    Views over the lake

    What to do in Ohrid

    Ohrid is a small place, but we still found plenty of things to do around the city.
    All places are added to our North Macedonia travel map

    St. John church

    This is probably the most famous spot in Ohrid, a beautiful old church located on a cliff by the lake. It’s magical. I can imagine it being full of tourists in the summer months, but we had the place to our selves most of the time, or maybe one other couple. It was great!

    Walking bridge

    There is a small walking bridge on the lake between the old town and towards St. John Church. We walked here many times to see the magical light over the lake. There’s also a few restaurants along here with beautiful views over the lake.

    @abearcalledpaddington enjoying a walk on the bridge. I had to add a pic with Paddington as we forgot to take a photo without him here!
    Also a good place for photos

    Walk around Ohrid Old town

    We didn’t spend that much time in the old town, as most places were closed. But we did walk around there to see all the sights. There’s loads of places to see and lots of beautiful old houses.

    Small alleys in old town

    One place in the old town is the Ancient theatre, this was a pretty peaceful place to be at (at least in low season), and there were also a family of stray dogs that we took care of a bit while we were in Ohrid. So if you pass by, please check if they’re ok, and bring them some food and give them love.

    The dog family we visted almost daily

    Green market

    There’s a pretty big green market in Ohrid which is nice to walk around. We got to taste lots of stuff and bought cheap vegetables to cook with. If you’re like us and love markets, this is worth a visit.

    Surrounding area

    There’s a lot of places to visit in the surrounding area of Ohrid as well, view points for mountains, old churches and small towns. However, we didn’t do this as we didn’t have a car and was happy with just exploring Ohrid.

    Where to eat in Ohrid

    We were quite surprised by the number of good restaurants in Ohrid. And the amount of restaurants. We enjoyed a lot of good food here, and most places were also super cheap, which is a nice bonus. Here’s a list of a few places we can recommend.

    Македонска софра

    This was out first meal in Ohrid, and we came back a few times after that. There is no English name for the place, and it’s super local. The people in there seemed quite surprised when we walked in. In the winters they have a semi outdoor area (in a tent) with fireplaces to make it warm. They served super yummy local North Macedonian food for a low price.

    The BBQ street

    There is a street close to the green market with only BBQ restaurants on it. We went here a couple of times to eat in a few different places. They all serve the same kind of food, balkan grill. We can recommend Brioni 2008 and Кебапчиница АДАНА, which both have nice food for a good price.

    Кебапчиница АДАНА was super busy during lunches on weekends, filled with local people who enjoyed grilled meat and salads. This was probably our favourite between the two.

    Restaurant Delikates

    There’s a lot of Greek food in North Macedonia, especially in the areas close to the border. This little greek restaurant in Ohrid was great. We enjoyed lots of food and wine here one rainy afternoon, and the owners were super sweet and helpful. It was also very cheap.

    Kaneo Restaurant

    This is by the lake next to St. John church. We thought it would be super touristy, which it might be, but it’s also very good quality food. A little bit expensive, but if you can splurge for a meal, this would be the place.

    More North Macedonia!

    Make sure to see our North Macedonia page for all our travel tips, travel map and all our blog posts about North Macedonia.

  • How to cross the land border between Albania and North Macedonia by foot

    How to cross the land border between Albania and North Macedonia by foot

    One of our most googled items during our travels through balkans was how to cross land borders between countries. Most of them were pretty straight forward, especially since we were on busses who knew which borders are open for foreigners etc. However, at one point we had to cross the border by foot, as there were no bus services between our to destinations. This was the border between Albania and North Macedonia. As there wasn’t a lot of updated information around we thought we’d share our story of how to cross the land border between Albania and North Macedonia by foot.

    Our last stop in Albania was Korçë, and from there we wanted to go to Ohrid in North Macedonia. There are different borders to cross between these two countries, but the one that made most sense for us was the Tushemisht – St. Naum border (you can see it marked on our Albania travel map and North Macedonia travel map). We quickly realized we had to do this in steps, and also cross this border by foot.

    How to cross the land border between Albania and North Macedonia by foot

    Step 1: Korçë to Pogradec

    From Korçë we jumped on a bus to the small town Pogradec. Which is also a quite popular place to stop for a few days, as its just on Lake Ohrid, which is shared between North Macedonia and Albania. But we had decided to head straight to Ohrid. The busride was about an hour and only cost us 150 lek each and there was a bus every hour, so this part was really easy.

    Happy Sam on the first part of our border crossing

    Step 2: Pogradec to Tushemisht (Albanian border control)

    From Pogradec to the actual border we had no choice than to take a taxi. You could walk, but it is quite far from the town where the bus stops and we didn’t find any busses going that way. There is probably some local bus going that way, but since the 15-20 minute taxi is only 700 lek it was just easier to catch one from the bus stop in Pogradec. Pogradec is also where you want to get rid of all your Lek (but save enough to pay the taxi!!) since there’s nothing by the border control.

    Step 3: Tushemisht border control (leaving Albania)

    Arriving at the border control there was a few cars asking if we wanted a taxi somewhere, but since it would be quite expensive to go all the way to Ohrid from there we had already decided to walk over the border and catch a bus on the other side.

    The Albanian border control here is situated right on the lake, so you have beautiful views from here. Normally  that wouldn’t really have mattered, but when we arrived the computers were all down so we had to wait for 30 minutes or so before we could cross the border and leave Albania.

    The crossing itself was really easy once the computers were running, they even had a walking lane in addition to the car lanes. It was also very quick. I’m not sure about the opening times, but during day time you won’t have any issues, and if you cross by foot you will want to do this at day time since it is quite a lot of walking included.

    The walk in between the two border controls

    Step 4:  St. Naum border control (entering North Macedonia)

    This was the only border  where the two border controls were quite far from each other, we had to walk for about 10-15 minutes along a road before even coming to the North Macedonian border control. However, the walk was nice and we were lucky with the sun.

    This border control was probably the hardest one of all borders we crossed in Balkans. First we had to queue up with the cars as there was no walking lane, and even if it just was 2 cars in front of us it took quite some time as they checked papers very, very throughly.

    After having our passports checked we had to walk to 2 other people who asked us lots of questions. Or actually they asked Sam lots of questions, they just looked at my passport and said “ah Swedish, welcome”. However, Sam, not sure if it was because he’s Brittish, got loads of questions, such as “Why are you here?”, “How long did you spend in Albania?”, “How long will you spend in North Macedonia?”, “Where are you staying in North Macedonia?”, “Are you carrying any drugs with you?” etc. etc. It was quite a difference between how they welcomed me and Sam. But after all the questions we were allowed to enter North Macedonia.

    Welcome to North Macedonia

    Step 5: Walking from the border to St. Naum

    This bit was quite a miss on our part, we hadn’t really realized how far it was to walk from the border control to the nearest bus station in St. Naum. There is also some military zones that you’re not allowed to enter. Our biggest tip for this part is to have downloaded any type of map, as you most likely wont have internet when you’ve enterd North Macedonia and it’s not just to follow the road.

    To start with you will follow the asphalt road leading from the border control, however, at one point you will want to head into a little path on the left (there is a small signpost for a church ‘✝’) through the forest/nature area as this is much closer than following the road the whole way. This little path is not really marked except for the little sign post, so this is where you will need your downloaded maps. There is also military zones in this area which you need to stay clear from.

    After some discussions we did find the path. Sam has a backpack so he had no issues walking here, however, my bag is a rolling bag.. this is an issue on this road as its just a path with grass and mud. I can tranform my bag into a backpack, but it’s too heavy for me… Anyway, in the end we found the way and got to St. Naum after a 30ish minute walk.

    If you don’t want to carry all your luggae it might be worth taking a taxi or cross the border on the north part of Lake Ohrid where you can go by bus.

    Step 6: St. Naum to Ohrid

    St. Naum is supposed to be a beautiful place for a stop. However, we skipped it as we didn’t want to carry around our bags anylonger so started walking towards the bus station, which is situated just outside the entrence to the St. Naum area.

    The bus takes about 1 hour and should cost 100 denar per person. But, if an older man stops in a car and asks if you want to ride with him instead, take the oppotrunity. Not sure if more than one man does this now, but the one we went with is a retired proffessor and drives tourists between Ohrid and St. Naum for the same price as the bus, as a way to get a little bit more money. I had actually read about him on a blog before going, otherwise I’m not sure if I would have taken the offer. But we did, which was great – as it didn’t cost us more and was much quicker than the bus. He dropped us off close to our AirBnb in Ohrid, I think you can ask him to drop you anywhere as long as it’s not a detour.